The dogs streak out at us as we take the ruts on the motorbike. Most of the dogs’ days round here are numbered; the majority of families breed free range dogs for the local cafes. I imagine that the dogs would not be averse to taking a few humans with them before they go. Yesterday the headmistress broke her arm on a motorbike colliding with two dogs.

Staff take every opportunity to party.  This lunchtime all staff gather at a local teacher’s house. It is a feast. Barbecued whole pig. Roast entrails and neck. Rice wine. Unknown vegetables. The men share a large tray of raw blood and bits. Peter declines. Phuong says ‘When in Rome do as Rome do’ but he always makes sure that there is some food that is acceptable to our Western palate. Unlike other staff, we do not drink at lunchtime when we are teaching. It is surprising to us how much spirits are downed in the ‘all in one gulp’ manner. Perhaps, though, it is the morning teachers who are drinking more. Clearly Peter’s motorbike driver is one of these. In the evening we say that we will not be a passenger of a rider who has been drinking; this is not acceptable to us and no volunteer should be put in this position.